In celebration of our birthday this month, we are taking a look back at our archives for some of our favourite stories. This feature on our friends CIBI was created for our 20th Birthday Magazine. We hope you enjoy reading!

We meet Meg and Zenta Tanaka, the founders of much-loved Melbourne institution CIBI.

It was from the belief that the ingredients that bring us joy, and enrich our everyday lives, stem from gathering around food and good design that CIBI was built. Meg and Zenta Tanaka opened Melbourne’s CIBI in 2008 and, for them, it’s always been more than a café, grocer and design store — it’s been an extension of their home. A place and space heavily influenced and informed by their notions of home and upbringing in Japan, CIBI has become a watering hole deeply ingrained in the community, celebrating Japanese culture through its food and artisans. But as Meg tells us, more than that, it’s a place and space that the community are invited into to grow up together, and to grow old together. We sat down to talk with the husband and wife team to hear about their village — the one they’ve created, but also the ones that have led them to who and where they are today.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR UPBRINGING, AND THE ROLES THAT FOOD AND DESIGN MAY HAVE PLAYED IN THEM?

Meg: I grew up in Japan, in the countryside of Okayama Prefecture, where many of the local people were farmers growing rice, fruit, and vegetables. I became aware of seasonal changes from a young age through produce being harvested and the natural landscape around me — cherished memories I hold onto.

Zenta: I grew up in Tokyo, a city boy, but also lived in the United States, Australia and Germany. In hindsight, my connection to design may have come from experiencing life in different countries and cultures. My childhood and idea of home is quite different from Meg’s in that way.

MEG, YOU SPEAK OF THE "VILLAGE" YOU GREW UP WITH IN JAPAN BEING LARGELY CENTRED AROUND YOUR GRANDMOTHER'S COOKING AND COMMITMENT TO SEASONALITY AND LOCALITY. HOW HAS THIS INFLUENCED AND INFORMED YOUR RELATIONSHIP TO FOOD AND DESIGN, AS WELL AS YOUR IDENTITY?

Growing up in a small village, everyone knows each other so there’s a natural support system that’s expressed in all kinds of ways. If you need a ride someone takes you, or if you harvest lots of vegetables, you share with your neighbours. Freshly made pickles, jam, tofu, or mochi were always being swapped and gifted in our neighbourhood. This was all a part of everyday life growing up that created strong community, knowledge and culture.

Many of my memories of cooking back home are centred around time in the kitchen with my grandmother who cooked for our large family. Maybe it was harvesting or preserving vegetables, or preparing food for the following morning’s breakfast, and occasionally making dishes for festivals together.

Growing up in an environment with access to seasonal produce, I’m always conscious about what we eat. Leaving home and moving away from Japan to study in Adelaide, and working in the wine and restaurant industry, are experiences that layered upon my upbringing. I’ve always been myself and have always had a focus on sharing good food. I carried this with me to my new home in Australia when I made the move to Melbourne.

My food philosophy has always had a focus on home-style food with good seasonal produce and simple Japanese- inspired flavours. Food to make our body and soul happy. This has been the basis for CIBI Melbourne since the day we opened in 2008.

HOW DID THE MOVE FROM JAPAN TO MELBOURNE COME ABOUT?

While studying in Adelaide, and then eventually returning to work in Tokyo, Melbourne always hovered in our imaginations. We knew it was the natural home for the relaxed lifestyle we craved, but also to bring our dreams of CIBI alive.

WHAT'S CIBI ALL ABOUT?

A very simple premise: CIBI is about creating a lifestyle and enjoying life through design, food and space.

WHAT DROVE THE CONCEPT OF A SPACE THAT ENCOMPASSED A CAFÉ, A GROCER, AND DESIGN STORE ALL IN ONE?

It has always been the dream of Zenta, CIBI’s Creative Director, to create a place where you can gather and enjoy design, food and space. The marriage of delicious food, beautifully designed cutlery in hand, and a space to feel welcomed like it’s your home. An understanding and belief that these are the ingredients that bring us joy and enrich our everyday. Design had to be part of the CIBI story because we wanted to share with Australia the products we value, celebrating the craftsmanship and history of Japanese artisans. We feel great pride in the pieces we sell.

IT CERTAINLY TAKES A VILLAGE TO RUN A CAFÉ OR RESTAURANT. WHO DO YOU SEE AS YOUR VILLAGE? AND WHO DO YOU SEE AS HAVING BEEN INTEGRAL TO GETTING CIBI TO WHERE IT IS TODAY?

True, it takes a village, and it certainly doesn’t happen overnight. The net is cast wide in our understanding of a village, and is one that continues to grow. Growing together with customers, watching children grow up, the daily interactions, the interstate and international customers returning to CIBI — it all keeps our hearts warm. The people who we’ve worked with, who have been with us for up to 14 years — CIBI team members, our producers, and suppliers both here in Australia and in Japan. They have supported us in the same way we have supported them. Together this village makes life a lot of fun, and a whole lot easier.

WHAT ROLE HAS AND DOES FAMILY PLAY IN YOUR WORK, FROM YOUR FAMILY AS A YOUNG CHILD TO WHERE YOU ARE NOW?

Meg: The experience of growing up in rural Japan in a multi-generational home — my great grandmother, grandparents, parents and my siblings — has grown in value to me. As a child, I don't think you reflect [upon] how home life will inform your adult life. In creating CIBI, my childhood informs me every day. CIBI is a home enjoyed by both little ones and great-grandparents, and we love that. To be inspired and discover the beauty in the world you live in, from harvesting mushrooms or visiting temples to perhaps peeling chestnuts. I feel very lucky to have experienced this type of beauty, and wish to share it as much as we can.

HOW DO YOU SEE YOUR ROLE AS BEING PART OF A VILLAGE FOR THE COMMUNITY? IS BEING A PLACE OF REFUGE, CONNECTION AND COMMUNITY FOR PEOPLE A STRONG FOCUS OF WHAT YOU DO?

“CIBI as a home” is a concept we’ve carried from even before we opened our doors in Collingwood in 2008. With home as a base camp, community naturally builds; a place where people can gather to share an experience. To grow up together, and hopefully to grow old together. Customers are invited, as if guests to our house, to become friends and family. It feels like a very natural thing for us to do.


OPENING ANY TYPE OF FOOD VENUE HAS ITS BEUTY AND ROMANTIC SIDE TO IT BUT THERE'S NO DENYING THAT IT'S ALSO AN INCREDIBLY GRUELLING WAY OF LIFE THAT REQUIRES A LOT OF MENTAL AND PHYSICAL STRENGTH. WHAT DRIVES YOU BOTH DAY-IN AND DAY-OUT?

Creativity and a simple desire to share our every day. Our wish is for people to enjoy their day, and be inspired. Food is a big part of CIBI, and in a way it does consume all of our attention — the ability to shift your focus and switch off to recharge is very important and rewarding in itself.

FARMERS AND PRODUCERS PLAY SUCH AN INTEGRAL ROLE IN RUNNING A CAFÉ OR RESTAURANT. EQUALLY SO FOR CIBI, THE ARTISANS YOU WORK WITH CONTRIBUTE HEAVILY TO WHAT YOU'RE ABOUT. HOW IMPORTANT IS DEVELOPING AND MAINTAINING RELATIONSHIPS WITH PRODUCERS, FARMERS AND ARTISANS IN THE WAY YOU COOK AND SERVE PEOPLE?

Relationships allow for great design, and we are very close to our manufacturers and producers. It’s always exciting to see what they do and we always get inspired when we visit them — we then get to share this emotional connection with our customers. The hands that create and the imagination that develops a design — we are always thinking of their smiling face when we talk about their products to customers. We have a feeling of great pride and privilege to work with the artisans and producers that we do.

DO YOU HAVE PARTICULAR PRODUCERS AND ARTISANS THAT ARE A STRONG PART OF YOUR VILLAGE?

CIBI’s relationships with Japanese artisans and manufacturers are longstanding and personal. We always visit our producers and are lucky to be invited into their studios to get a real understanding of their work. We recently caught up with Yoshifumi Saito, Creative Director of Shotoku Glass, who makes our CIBI Everyday Glass, originally inspired by the friendship we share. Hakusan Porcelain is another maker that brings constant beauty into our store.


HOW HAVE CIBI AND INCU CONTRIBUTED TO EACH OTHER'S BRANDS, AND VILLAGES?

We enjoy seeing creativity come to life, whether it’s expressed in fashion, food, design or space. Working with good brands and building relationships with them and their teams are foundational values of both CIBI and Incu. And we certainly share many customers in our Melbourne community with Incu.

BEYONG FEEDING AND FUELLING, WHAT ROLE DO YOU THINK FOOD PLAYS IN CREATING AND STRENGTHENING A VILLAGE?

Good food makes people happy and feel good inside, and provides an emotional connection. Connecting people and creating community is an expansion of our understanding of home.

Writer HARRIET DAVIDSON
Photographer PHILLIP HUYNH
Location CIBI IN NAARM (MELBOURNE)